Claire Schaeffer: Godmother of Haute Couture Sewing #2

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If Susan Khalje is the hands-on “Godmother of Haute Couture”, who learned her craft making confections for Bridezilla, then Claire Schaeffer is the historian, whose in-depth study of haute couture techniques have made her books a must-have for my sewing library.

Her “Couture Sewing Techniques” book, in particular, describes just about every haute couture technique that a sewing enthusiast will encounter in a lifetime (or the half-life of your fabric stash, which is 9 million years…). Fitting, sleeve-setting, hems, buttonholes, pockets, jacket tailoring (including Chanel-style jackets), fabrics, pressing etc. are all covered in painstaking detail. Here’s where you can find it on Amazon:

If you go to the Threads Magazine website, there is a series of videos by Claire Schaeffer illustrating the techniques from the book, which I highly recommend. The hand-stitching tutorial in particular I found very useful. If your hand-sewing skills are not that strong, it’s worth it for you to watch this video and practice before you undertake sewing a Chanel-style jacket. You need to subscribe to the Threads website for access to the videos, or buy the DVD:

Claire Schaeffer just published a comprehensive book on the history and making of the Chanel-style jacket, entitled “The Couture Cardigan Jacket: Sewing Secrets from a Chanel Collector.” The enclosed DVD walks you through every step of her method of making a jacket. Here it is on Amazon:

(I have a confession to make at this point. I love Claire Schaeffer’s books, but just looking at the zillions of steps she outlines in her Chanel-style jacket method gives me so much anxiety that I want to go bake cookies instead.) Fortunately, Lizzie of The Vintage Traveler, a favorite blog of mine, has written a nice rundown of the book and video, which you can find here:

One person who made a very pretty jacket using Claire’s pattern is seamstress Ann Rowley. During construction, she took a series of very helpful photos illustrating every step:

And here’s a link to reviews from by people who have completed jackets from this pattern.

Vogue 8804

If you are someone who can fathom spending the time it takes to hand-sew a couple of intricate quilts and fashion them into a tiny jacket, then Claire’s method may be for you. There’s a lot of basting involved, and people who have made the pattern say it takes more than 100 hours start to finish. The result is a meticulous and authentic jacket that’s a little conservative for my tastes, but may be just what you’re looking for.

7 thoughts on “Claire Schaeffer: Godmother of Haute Couture Sewing #2

  1. I was reasearching Chanel jackets to sew. I just wanted to say I found your postings very helpful, especially the videos on Threads. I am a member, but had never seen them. Also, these jackets are a bit conservative for my taste, I am hoping to make it more my style somehow. Hopefully before the many hours of hand sewing. Thanks.

    • Thanks, and good luck with the project! Susan Khalje now has a video course that comes with a pattern for her version of the jacket, which you can find on But you can use any number of patterns. Don’t get too hung up on whether you have the three-part sleeve etc. because they take forever. The important thing is to make a muslin version of your pattern first to make sure that you get it fitted properly, before you cut your nice fabric. I like Susan’s method for that. Also, other bloggers have made “test versions” of a jacket first (with less expensive fabric) then they totally ran out of gas and never made the “official version”. So make and fit a muslin, then go for it!

  2. Oh my, that was an entertaining read! Poor you! I hope you recovered enough to actually wear the thing! I’ve been obsessing about this very same project and hope to start soon. Thank gawd I like hand sewing 🤪

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