I hope you all had happy holidays, and I wanted to mention that my new free downloadable pattern with tutorial is available on Bernina’s WeAllSew.com website. Aren’t you ready for some post-holiday #selfishsewing? I certainly am, and I didn’t even finish my husband’s tie! (It’s now officially his “birthday tie.”)
When I created this pattern, I was inspired by a 1947 Claire McCardell design (lower right) for a knit shoulder wrap, though the concept was around long before that. This wrap is snug enough to stay on the shoulders, but can still be worn around the neck like an infinity scarf. It’s lined and reversible, and the tutorial takes you through step-by-step. It’s not difficult at all, so I hope you’ll give it a try!
Carmen of the CarmencitaB blog tipped me off that this type of wrap is known as a “liseuse” in France, (the loose translation is “girl reader”) and that it used to be worn while reading in drafty French country homes (similar to what was known as a “bed jacket” here in the U.S.). So then it was eeek! down the internet rabbit hole again, to learn more about this style.
First of all, who knew that there were so many works of art featuring women reading? Which makes perfect sense, because after a certain point, just about any woman is going to say, “I don’t care if you are Picasso, if I’m going to sit for you, gimme something to read!”
(That’s Picasso’s “La Liseuse” from 1920. Doesn’t it look like she’s texting?)
The earliest example I found shows a high-born woman (who could read!) wearing a cape-like wrap, in a painting by Hans Memling from the 1470s:
Then in 1888, Vincent Van Gogh captured this woman wearing a chic wrap, in “Une Liseuse de Romans” (which I think means “reader of novels.” No wonder she’s so engrossed.)
In terms of fashion, in the early 20th century, this style of short jacket was interpreted for evening by Madame Vionnet:
(Another great save by the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute.)
And that may very well have been where McCardell picked up the idea. She studied fashion in Paris in the 20s, and in her letters home she complained about the French being “thrifty” with the heating. While she was there, she spent a lot of time deconstructing Vionnet garments, which is how she got hip to the bias cut.
During her career, McCardell designed a number of evening dresses made of warm wool, with wraps, shrugs, and cropped jackets to wear to dinner parties in drafty U.S. country houses as well. Here’s one example, a strapless wool evening dress with a jacket, again from the Metropolitan Museum’s online collection:
More recently, this type of wrap was shown in the 2013 collection from Celine:
When I was in France I saw several similar wraps:
(I don’t know what the furry thing is on it, or why she’s wearing a hat over her head…)
And this one from French cult brand Agnes b., made from a light sweater knit:
To make a wrap similar to the one from Agnes b., download the free pattern, which looks like a triangle with the top chopped off. Add several inches to both the top and bottom of the pattern.
(That’s a highly skilled sketch from the JetSetSewing graphics team. They’re a couple of chipmunks who live in my kitchen.) Extending the pattern at the top and bottom will make it longer, like a poncho, with more of a funnel neck.
I’ve seen wraps like these in the U.S. as well. American designer Eileen Fisher offered this asymmetrical wrap in her fall collection, which immediately made me think “I could hack that.”
To make a “muslin” version, I took my pattern and set it on the diagonal, putting the left on the fold, and adding triangles to the top and bottom. I sewed it up and it looked okay, so I moved on to the real thing.
I decided to use this Missoni-ish wool blend I got in France. I prepped it by throwing it in my dryer’s steam cycle. (Do as I say, not as I do, always test a swatch first!)
Since I wasn’t lining this version, I decided to use a French seam on the side to finish the raw edge. With wrong sides together, lining up the design on the fabric with double quilt pins, I overlocked some clear elastic into the seam, using the Bernina Bulky Overlock foot. (The same foot that made all of that piping on the McCardell dress…it’s very useful!)
(You could also use a narrow zigzag to attach the elastic to the seam, if you’re using a vintage machine.)
Then I turned the wrap wrong-side out to put right sides together, and pinned it to encase the seam I just sewed.
I sewed that seam with a narrow zigzag, which covered up the overlocking and elastic.
Oo la la, I love zee French seams!
When I tried it on, the length plus the retro pattern on the fabric was looking way too “hippy poncho” to me:
So I chopped about 5 inches off of the bottom.
At the top and bottom, I overlocked more clear elastic along the edge, turned under the raw edge about 1/2 inch, then turned it under again about 3/4”, and sewed the edge with a narrow zigzag, like topstitching. If you pick the right color thread, the stitching’s not that obvious, and there are no raw edges showing on the inside.
You can wear it with the point on the side, or in the back.
(I think the chipmunks took that picture, too.)
Here’s how the final pattern looked (more or less). The grainline goes along the bottom:
(I’m going to fire those chipmunks…)
Now that I’ve made myself a liseuse, I need to find time to read!!
Happy New Year’s sewing!
(For details about how Bernina USA is loaning a B560 machine to JetSetSewing.com to assist with vintage projects like this, please click the “Bernina Collaboration” tab above. At some point, Karl and I are going to set that disclosure to music, to make it more pleasant for all of us…)
22 thoughts on “Claire McCardell-Inspired Free Downloadable Pattern, and a couple of hacks.”
Lovely photos of the art, and great work on that pattern – thank you!
(Please don’t be too hard on the chipmunks. They did their bestest, I’m sure.)
Happy New Year!
Okay, I’ll try to lighten up on the chipmunks, though they do tend to do a lot of high-pitched singing after they’ve raided the junk food.
I love such easy but useful garment pieces. I think the longer version made of nice fabric could be great to evening gowns.
I will dig some fabric to try it out. It is so great to have such wrap at the office. And perfect while sewing… Thanks 🙂
Hi Beate! I’ve found those wraps to be very versatile, especially for traveling. I wore the original all over Paris, and just wore the asymmetrical one to breakfast at a ski resort. Send a picture if you make one up!
I will 🙂
Since I have ‘become my Mother’–my neck is always cold–I love this type of wrap. And they don’t slide off to trip you up or get lost. Thanx for more inspiration.
Hi Carol, yes, I’m turning into my mother, too, but she was constantly reinventing herself at this age, so that’s a good thing! These wraps are great because you can stuff them in your bag if you’re going to an over-air conditioned theater or restaurant.
I see a pattern line in your future! Thanks for the historical background…and happy new year!
Happy new year to you, too, Lynn! As for the pattern line…who knows? At this age, I’m happy just to have made it this far.
Nice! The old hippy in me really likes the longer version :))
Hi Marianne! Well, as they used to say back then, “if it feels good, do it.” I was actually more of a 70s vintage gal turned 80s yuppie, so a poncho was never in my past.
Never being much of a hippie, I prefer the shorter version. It looks so practical and yet so stylish. Definitely worth finding some reading time! Happy 2015 to you!
Hi Karen! I’m definitely more into the 40s-50s “shrug” length, myself. It fits in more with the northeast urban boomer look. The longer version feels more L.A. to me.
“deconstructing Vionnet garments” evokes images of mad scientists with scissors and seam rippers in my head. But if the orange dress is McCardell’s monster coming to life with the help of this sacrifice I might be able to forgive her.
Really like the wrap pattern, thank you. I bought a similar but rectangular one last year in Germany. I love to wear it like a bolero jacket, keeps your neck and kidneys warm in drafty rooms and serves well as a scarf outside. Though I love the reading-story, I assume I have never worn a warp when reading, maybe I should give it a try.
Wish you all the best for 2015!
Hello Ette, and happy new year to you! You know, I love reading about how Claire McCardell was this simple girl from Maryland who badgered her parents into letting her go to fashion school in NY, which included a year in Paris studying at the Place des Vosges. She and her friends were little American flappers who went out dancing and to the Opera. They were allowed to buy the designers samples for a small amount of money, and that’s how she got her hands on the Vionnet dresses. It had a huge impact on her, because the majority of her designs used Vionnet’s bias cut in the bodice.
Thanks for the heads up! I do have all the trimmings to make one and if I keep coughing like I do now, I may actually need it. Have a Happy New Year, I really look forward to seeing more of you…
Hi Carmen, well, I know you’ve been running yourself ragged, so I hope that cough goes away soon! I’m sure you could come up with a chic YSL meets Pierre Cardin hack of this wrap in a heartbeat. Happy New Year to you, and I hope our paths cross again soon!
Hi Julie, Love the hacked wrap. So the 20″ length is before or after you chopped off the 5″ ? I like the shorter version too.
Hi Deepika, thanks for coming to “visit” from Pattern Review! The 20″ length is the final shorter version, though I’ll admit I ballparked those measurements, since I’m on vacation with the wrap and no tape measure. Since you’re more petite than I am, it will probably need to be narrower and shorter. I bet you could pin fit it pretty easily, though. Happy New Year!
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I love this. Thank you. I had something like this I my head and wondered… You’ve convinced me I need one. Loved the history too!!